Weather: Sunny and cold, with a moderately light south easterly wind (offshore)
Activity for the Day: Surfing at Tullan Strand
Got out relatively early today. The swell was pretty big, wedgey and clean on the sets and growing throughout the day. There were a few spicey wedges that were approximately double overhead and the strand definitely had a Waimea bay vibe going on…
Most people got in by the cliffs as the paddle out was pretty beastly, especially in the morning. In the afternoon a few of us tried a new cliff entry point which leaves you further out back which is good, but requires a bit of a jump (approximately 2 meters), which is a bit of fun and a wee bit scary.
Overall the waves were pretty heavy throughout the day and some pretty epic wipeouts happened. At one point I was being sucked over a solid 4-5 foot wave and had to throw my board away from me in case I landed on it. Conor also wiped out like this and then did land on his board. Overall the wave were probably a bit too big for most of the group but everyone seemed to have a bit of craic anyway and at the very least everyone was awed by the power of nature and all that stuff.
Ultimately I feel today was pretty good because people were generally pushed outside their comfort zones and also a few class waves were surfed. Personally, I got two very cool rides, which made the day well worth while.
Mike